Sunday, 1 July 2012

Walking in the Manyeleti

I have been fortunate enough to walk in some of South Africa’s more well known and large Nature Reserves including the Kruger National Park. In the past 14 months I’ve been fortunate enough to notch up more than 250 walking hours in the Manyeleti Game Reserve and Kruger National Park.

Walking in the Manyeleti Game Reserve varies continually from open grasslands to mixed Combretum and Acacia trees. The perennial sandy riverbeds are lush and green throughout the year. Very old and large Jackal-berry, Boer-bean, Apple-leaf, Sycamore Fig and Wild Fig trees are also scattered over the area. Several waterholes are found close to the Nwasisontso riverbed as well as far into the reserve.






So what should you expect from a walking safari experience? In general it depends on the specific area you are walking in, the density and frequency of other driving and walking activities in that area, the size of the area you allowed to walk in as well as the level of experience of your guide. If you opt for a long walk, the Field Guide leading the walk should be sufficiently experienced. This refers to the amount of hours guiding paying clients while being on foot in dangerous game areas, the guide has logged. Industry accepted qualifications are also essential. 

Short walks are generally intended to perhaps view a known animal in a known area, interpret and view a few smaller fauna and flora as well as tracks and signs left behind, while ambling not too far from the lodge or vehicle.

On long walks lasting a few hours you can expect a much higher possibility of spotting a wider variety of animals. More time spent on foot allows for more detailed information on local plant species and interesting track and sign interpretations. A mix of hiking and quiet meandering gives you ample time to absorb sights, sounds and smells that could tickle your senses and create interesting questions. You could expect better opportunities to photograph the area and animals although a driving safari is the better option if photography is your main aim.

On a most recent walk with only one guest, we were returning from Wild Dog dam. On our way we saw different tracks like Spotted Genet, Spotted Hyena and had time to study a bounding arrangement of tracks for a large toad. We found and talked about arguably one of the biggest Bushveld Gardenia trees in the greater area and spent some time discussing various different topics.




Not too far from Safari Lodge I saw a piece of white “thing” on the ground. I bent down and the moment I picked it up I knew what it was. Ivory! Genuine African Elephant Ivory! Hard and heavy like dense bone. Finger-long and well defined dry cracks filled with brown and black organic material worked in over time.




Elephant dig and use their tusks as a handy tool and tend to use one tusk a lot more than the other. This tusk then becomes polished and sometimes develops a noticeable groove on the tip. This becomes a weaker point and with just the right amount of pressure and angle of force the tusk tip may splinter off.

This is what I just picked up. What to do when you find Ivory? Depending on the specific conservation or reserve laws and rules in your area, you either have to leave it there and report it to reserve management or hand it in to authorities for safe keeping. The Manyeleti Game Reserve bags and tags all ivory found. This is then recorded and kept in a secure location containing possibly several dozen tons of Ivory collected over many years. As seen in the below image, the Ivory was found and handed in.


Ivory from an Elephant that died after fighting with a much larger male



We continued the walk and heard hyena giggling with excitement. We stopped, listened and thought about what they might be doing as it was still daylight. The sound stopped for a while and suddenly erupted again. We were close!

We weaved towards the sound and I kept in mind what else we could find. A cautioned approach was my first priority.

They laughed again and then we heard it. KRACK! Krrrunch! They were snapping and crunching bones at a frantic pace. Our approach became slower, our senses were focused and the wind was perfect. The sound was close and the temptation to get visual confirmation was natural.  Whilst listening fairly close to the action, I decided to let the unknown be and not disturb these feeding carnivores.  Instead, we just listened and kept some of the mystery alive. Slipping away, a feeling of awe and respect came over us. We just experienced Africa at a grass root level.

By learning from others, asking questions, being curious and by investigating the unknown, a lot can be learned from the bush, however a good mix of experience, patience, planning and analytical thinking is in my opinion very important. 

A walking safari should be an exciting, informative, learning and safe activity. Time should be spent looking at whatever draws your attention. If you’re lucky enough you should also see different types of mammals, birds, insect and other animals. 

In the Manyeleti Game Reserve you can expect to see Buffalo, Giraffe, Elephant, White Rhino and plenty other antelope and bird species on short and long walks. Other apex animals like Leopard and Lion have also been spotted. Many different and interesting signs and sights for example wasps building nests, territorial markings by Hippos, Buffalo wallowing in mud and Elephant digging for roots can be found to only mention a few. Photographic opportunities for guests are always kept in mind.


Leopard spotted on a walk sleeping in a tree

A classic Buffalo stare down

Elephant on a walk

Elephant on a walk

You will need closed shoes, preferable hiking boots, a hat and neutral colored clothing. Binoculars and a camera is optional. We carry water and other essentials and provide sunscreen and bug spray.

With a very low vehicle density and 23 500 hectares (58 750 Acres) of old wilderness, you can be sure to have a memorable walking and safari experience that is value for money.




Fritz Breytenbach


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