Sunday, 19 August 2012

Water Wars

I had an Italian couple that requested a photographic safari and I decided to start out a little earlier than usual to capitalize on the beautiful light afternoon safaris had on offer. Leaving the lodge, we decided to head to a waterhole called Ingwe Manzi (meaning Leopard Water in Zulu), as it houses two hippo bulls. With the benefit of winter chances were good that they were basking in the sun providing us with some interesting shots. What a decision this proved to be!

Arriving at Ingwe Manzi, we found the two bulls out of the water as anticipated. They were definitely not basking. These two were having an altercation. Two bulls facing off, snout to snout! While I was still approaching and getting into the best position they started their brawl. The bigger bull fiercely forced the younger bull into the water with the younger bull desperately marking his territory by defecating and sprinkling his dung as a show of defiance.




The fight was shorter than expected and the large bull forced the younger bull out of the water. We noticed a gash on the younger bulls side. The larger bull enforced his dominance by refusing to let the younger bull back in the water, leaving him to lick his wounds in the hot lowveld sun.



We were about to continue our quest when we noticed a group of about eight elephant bulls heading down to the water. ”Oh good “I thought, “more testosterone. This ought to make things interesting!”

They came down and in typical Elephant fashion claimed complete control of the waterhole. They rolled and played in the muddy water. Two bull elephants then started jostling for a position at the water and our sighting ended off on the same note as it started. Bulls with too much Testosterone, trying to teach each other a lesson!






Darren Roberts-York

Photographs taken with a Nikon Coolpix P510

Friday, 10 August 2012

Another meal for a fierce pride

One of the most requested sightings is a kill. People don’t understand the luck aspect involved. Then when they see it for the first time, they are often horrified by the savagery of nature as the battle between life and death is acted out before their very eyes.


After our sundowner stop, Mpho our wilderness tracker, informed us of some lion in the southern section of the reserve. Patrick and I entertained a group for only one night and as they hadn’t seen lion at the previous lodge there were no negotiations. We had to go and find these lions.

When we got there we found four lionesses and two young males. This was a pride I’d never seen before, so confusion ruled for a short while. Once I found my bearings I started to concentrate on what was happening in front of me. Two of the lionesses were quite playful and pretty easy on the eye. The eldest lioness was all business and walked in a northerly direction. Then her behaviour changed. The other lions instinctively caught on to what was happening and started to spread out. We knew they had seen something, but we hadn’t seen their target yet.

Then we saw them! A breeding herd of Impala about 50 meters away. During these hunts, the ethical thing to do is to switch all lights off. We therefore ensure that there is no interference from our side. So fair is fair, let the play begin.

The eldest female took up the centre. Quietly lying, ears pricked and eyes focused. She started to creep forward. The Impala at this point had no idea what was happening but started to mull around, moving closer together and huddling in a tight ball. We sat patiently, waiting, listening for any sign of the drama, waiting to unfold.

Then BANG! An explosion of sound, hooves and snorting. CHAOS! The lights went on revealing the eldest lioness anchoring one impala. The others rushed in and then the carnage began! Teeth, claws and flashes of tense muscle! The poor impala never stood a chance. A light breeze had been blowing and the lions were on the right side to start off with. With it being night time, the impala couldn’t see them either. The lions ripped the body apart, showing no remorse. This was raw nature! The big cats squabbled over the little meat the impala could offer.



After about 10 minutes we decided to head back to the lodge (The guests were hungry after the show). We slowly left the scene, the excited chatter just starting when BAM, a second impala! One of the young females had taken advantage of the chaos and had one all to herself. Another young female had moved away from the competition of the first kill. She took her opportunity, and pounced on the carcass. The lionesses then started wrestling and pulling. The competition started all over again.



We watched the new, unexpected drama for a while. The luck of evening started to dawn on us and we left a second time.

I dug around and found out that these lion were a part of the Hamiltons Pride from the Mluwati concession in the Kruger National Park. They were on very dangerous ground being right in the middle of Matimba territory. It was the first time they have been seen on the reserve and hope to see them again soon!

Darren Roberts-York

All Video Taken with a Nikon Coolpix P510


Monday, 6 August 2012

Safari Snapshot #2



Beautiful African Sunset



Lazy Boy - Chacma Baboon



African Elephant



Sable Antelope



Waterbuck Bull



Plains Zebra


All Photo's taken by Darren Roberts-York with a Nikon Coolpix P510

Saturday, 28 July 2012

There she goes again

There has been quite a special character moving around the area lately. We’ve been lucky to have a female Cheetah going about her business, oblivious to the attention she has been receiving.


 

This female has been hanging around the Main Dam/ Jackals plain area in the eastern part of the reserve. One particular morning we found her and right on cue she started the show. She marked a few spots, walked straight past the vehicle, lay down on the road and rolled over a few times, just making sure that everyone managed to get a photo of her good side.




After a few minutes she walked north on Jackals plain and then along the road. Right next the road a Marula tree had been pushed over by Elephants. This was probably by a bull getting a little over zealous trying to get the last of the delicious fruits. She stood, looked at the tree and decided that it would be a good vantage point to scan the surrounding plains.




Up she went and had a look around. Then the sniffing started. She explored the tree as if following a scent map. There was something significant about this tree. We couldn’t smell it but she knew exactly what information was being shared. She then began marking the tree herself. It began with her claws, much like a domestic cat on a sofa, extending her claws and scratching. Then sniffing again, exploring every page of the woody “newspaper” she had at her disposal.




These trees are known as “play trees“ and form an important part of a Cheetah’s home range. Because they are used by numerous Cheetahs, it plays an integral part in their social affairs. Any other Cheetah that had passed through previously would have used this specific tree to advertise that they had been around. This is the information she was receiving. Just before she came down, she dropped her own dung, letting all other Cheetah know that she had been there.



Darren Roberts-York

All photo's taken by Darren Roberts-York with a Nikon Coolpix P510


Sunday, 15 July 2012

Another Greek Tradgedy


Just after morning coffee, we decided to slowly make our way back to the lodge. It was already after ten o’clock and started to warm up nicely. Little did we know what was in store for us before breakfast.


Mpho, our wilderness tracker, radioed in that he was with six male lions and they were killing cubs. Six big males together? We knew who these lions were. The Matimba males! They hadn’t been this far north in a very long time so something was definitely up. We briefed the guests on what was happening, explaining that it was a natural occurrence, hoping that the magnitude of what they were about to see, would sink in.


Arriving at the scene, we found two lionesses and one cub, but something was wrong. The cub was struggling to lift itself up. And blood! The Matimba’s had already got to this poor cub. The males were about 50 meters away and the atmosphere was incredibly tense. Then one of the males got up and the females reacted with savage ferocity. They were both eyeing these killers with a well-designed death stare.  Baring their teeth, their message was clear: “Come any closer and you’ll get it!”. These males were old hands and had played this game many times, but these females weren’t going anywhere. All the while, the unfortunate cub was trying to remove itself from this predicament. Its back was broken and no matter how hard it tried, it just couldn’t get away. At least mom and aunt were on the defence!


Lioness baring her teeth defending her helpless cub

The Matimba males moved away, but only about 100 meters. They were ready for the inevitable. The lionesses can’t stay with the cub for long. We followed the males for a while. They lay down in a shady spot not far from the females, comfort achieved, now just waiting. The males went to sleep.

Three of the six Matimba male Lions

Going back to where the females were, we returned to a scene that would melt a stone heart. The mother was grooming the cub, willing it to get up and get away while they still could. The lioness had turned from fierce warrior to concerned mother. With the social bond still strong, she groomed the injured cub. A sad scene re-enacted itself as it had so many times before. We left with a mixed feeling of elation and sadness, a feeling that leaves you confused yet privileged.

 


Mpho stayed with the lionesses for the rest of the day. Later that afternoon the inevitable happened. The instinct of self-preservation took over and the warrior lionesses that had held off six male lions that morning, abandoned the cub. We were getting the updates as it was happening. A few minutes after the females left, the six males approached the cub and within seconds it was over. The biggest male bit and shook the cub, ending the struggle, ending the drama.


Chatting around the campfire later that evening, the shocking truth was revealed. These males had been seen mating with these females last year and this could very well have been their cub.


It made me think of the story of Hercules. According to the myth, Hercules killed his own children in a fit of madness. He then had to perform incredible tasks in order to gain forgiveness. Who knows what feats these males will perform in the years to come?

Darren Roberts-York

All photos and video taken with a Nikon Coolpix P510

Monday, 9 July 2012

Who's the Boss?


We had a pretty good morning up to this point. Having already seen a herd of at least 600 Buffalo, six big male Elephant’s and not to mention numerous birds, we were in really high spirits. Then the call came in, CHEETAH! This would make a good morning a great morning and we were only about 5 minutes’ drive away!




We followed Simon’s directions and found a female Cheetah relaxing next his vehicle. We were about 100 meters or so from Main dam. After two or three minutes she decided to move towards the dam and we instantly noticed her intensions. She was using the cover of the tree line to scope out the potential prey on offer. Main dam usually has a fair amount of general game in the area, including Impala, which would probably be what she was looking for. Unfortunately she was spotted by a herd of much larger Waterbuck. The Waterbuck started snorting in alarm, letting her know that she had been seen. With her cover blown she moved on towards the dam. The Waterbuck however started advancing on her, snorting in disgust. She knew that the attention she had brought on herself meant there would be no meal here. Also, if any larger predators were in the area, they would come to investigate the disruption and she could be in trouble.



We sat patiently anticipating her next move. For some or other reason she decided to move east along the bank of the dam, right towards the Waterbuck. She was keeping a respectable distance when one of the female Waterbuck approached her. The Cheetah lowered her head in an aggressive posture, but the Waterbuck was not intimidated and followed through in full charge. She reacted instinctively and made a quick getaway from the much larger Waterbuck. The Waterbuck charged for at least 100 meters sending the female Cheetah away knowing who was in charge.






Darren Roberts-York


All photo's and video taken with a Nikon Coolpix P510


Sunday, 1 July 2012

Walking in the Manyeleti

I have been fortunate enough to walk in some of South Africa’s more well known and large Nature Reserves including the Kruger National Park. In the past 14 months I’ve been fortunate enough to notch up more than 250 walking hours in the Manyeleti Game Reserve and Kruger National Park.

Walking in the Manyeleti Game Reserve varies continually from open grasslands to mixed Combretum and Acacia trees. The perennial sandy riverbeds are lush and green throughout the year. Very old and large Jackal-berry, Boer-bean, Apple-leaf, Sycamore Fig and Wild Fig trees are also scattered over the area. Several waterholes are found close to the Nwasisontso riverbed as well as far into the reserve.






So what should you expect from a walking safari experience? In general it depends on the specific area you are walking in, the density and frequency of other driving and walking activities in that area, the size of the area you allowed to walk in as well as the level of experience of your guide. If you opt for a long walk, the Field Guide leading the walk should be sufficiently experienced. This refers to the amount of hours guiding paying clients while being on foot in dangerous game areas, the guide has logged. Industry accepted qualifications are also essential. 

Short walks are generally intended to perhaps view a known animal in a known area, interpret and view a few smaller fauna and flora as well as tracks and signs left behind, while ambling not too far from the lodge or vehicle.

On long walks lasting a few hours you can expect a much higher possibility of spotting a wider variety of animals. More time spent on foot allows for more detailed information on local plant species and interesting track and sign interpretations. A mix of hiking and quiet meandering gives you ample time to absorb sights, sounds and smells that could tickle your senses and create interesting questions. You could expect better opportunities to photograph the area and animals although a driving safari is the better option if photography is your main aim.

On a most recent walk with only one guest, we were returning from Wild Dog dam. On our way we saw different tracks like Spotted Genet, Spotted Hyena and had time to study a bounding arrangement of tracks for a large toad. We found and talked about arguably one of the biggest Bushveld Gardenia trees in the greater area and spent some time discussing various different topics.




Not too far from Safari Lodge I saw a piece of white “thing” on the ground. I bent down and the moment I picked it up I knew what it was. Ivory! Genuine African Elephant Ivory! Hard and heavy like dense bone. Finger-long and well defined dry cracks filled with brown and black organic material worked in over time.




Elephant dig and use their tusks as a handy tool and tend to use one tusk a lot more than the other. This tusk then becomes polished and sometimes develops a noticeable groove on the tip. This becomes a weaker point and with just the right amount of pressure and angle of force the tusk tip may splinter off.

This is what I just picked up. What to do when you find Ivory? Depending on the specific conservation or reserve laws and rules in your area, you either have to leave it there and report it to reserve management or hand it in to authorities for safe keeping. The Manyeleti Game Reserve bags and tags all ivory found. This is then recorded and kept in a secure location containing possibly several dozen tons of Ivory collected over many years. As seen in the below image, the Ivory was found and handed in.


Ivory from an Elephant that died after fighting with a much larger male



We continued the walk and heard hyena giggling with excitement. We stopped, listened and thought about what they might be doing as it was still daylight. The sound stopped for a while and suddenly erupted again. We were close!

We weaved towards the sound and I kept in mind what else we could find. A cautioned approach was my first priority.

They laughed again and then we heard it. KRACK! Krrrunch! They were snapping and crunching bones at a frantic pace. Our approach became slower, our senses were focused and the wind was perfect. The sound was close and the temptation to get visual confirmation was natural.  Whilst listening fairly close to the action, I decided to let the unknown be and not disturb these feeding carnivores.  Instead, we just listened and kept some of the mystery alive. Slipping away, a feeling of awe and respect came over us. We just experienced Africa at a grass root level.

By learning from others, asking questions, being curious and by investigating the unknown, a lot can be learned from the bush, however a good mix of experience, patience, planning and analytical thinking is in my opinion very important. 

A walking safari should be an exciting, informative, learning and safe activity. Time should be spent looking at whatever draws your attention. If you’re lucky enough you should also see different types of mammals, birds, insect and other animals. 

In the Manyeleti Game Reserve you can expect to see Buffalo, Giraffe, Elephant, White Rhino and plenty other antelope and bird species on short and long walks. Other apex animals like Leopard and Lion have also been spotted. Many different and interesting signs and sights for example wasps building nests, territorial markings by Hippos, Buffalo wallowing in mud and Elephant digging for roots can be found to only mention a few. Photographic opportunities for guests are always kept in mind.


Leopard spotted on a walk sleeping in a tree

A classic Buffalo stare down

Elephant on a walk

Elephant on a walk

You will need closed shoes, preferable hiking boots, a hat and neutral colored clothing. Binoculars and a camera is optional. We carry water and other essentials and provide sunscreen and bug spray.

With a very low vehicle density and 23 500 hectares (58 750 Acres) of old wilderness, you can be sure to have a memorable walking and safari experience that is value for money.




Fritz Breytenbach